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Tina and Brett
When it comes to white wines that are finely crafted and a good value, Italy always punches well above its weight. Boutique family-owned wine producers like Gregoletto are one of the best places to find high-quality wines, and our favorite wine importer, Kermit Lynch, is a master at sniffing out producers like these and introducing them to US markets.
It is such a thrill to try wines like this 2020 Gregoletto Manzoni Bianco. Not only is this one of the world’s rarest grapes (it’s a hybrid with limited plantings in Veneto), but it’s a lovely addition to any cellar.
The Gregoletto family has been making wine in Italy since the 1600s, and this isn’t just family lore. A document dated January 9, 1600, states that an abbey in the region allowed the family to begin cultivating vineyards at the site, and, amazingly, this is the same land that the Gregolettos farm today.
While the family has a rich history of farming the land, growing grapes, and making wine, they didn’t start receiving international attention until Luigi Gregoletto took over the winemaking duties after World War II.
Luigi was born in 1927 and spent his entire life in Conegliano Valdobbiadene, also known as the land of Prosecco. His family was tenant farmers or what we might call sharecroppers. This means that they tended the land but didn’t own the vines.
He left school in the fifth grade, as was common at the time in Italy, and began learning about life in the vineyard and how to work the land. Although he had no formal training, his light-touch winemaking techniques garnered him the 2016 FIVI (Italian Federation of Independent Winemakers) Winemaker of the Year award.
This bottling is one of the last wines that Luigi crafted before his death in 2021.
Gregoletto’s vineyards are located in the heart of Italy’s Prosecco DOC, and the winery produces still demi-sec and semi-sparkling wines made from the Glera grape. Wine lovers will also find Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and a red blend made of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Marzemino.
Manzoni Bianco is a hybrid grape created by Professor Luigi Manzoni in the 1930s. One of Manzoni’s passions was experimenting with crossing different grape varieties to create new white and red grapes that he thought would do well in his native Veneto. His goal was to create a series of grapes that could be used in blending but also as stand-alone varieties.
To create Manzoni Bianco, German Riesling was crossed with Pinot Bianco, an elegant white grape from northeastern Italy. Recently, there has been some discussion that Professor Manzoni may have actually used Chardonnay rather than Pinot Bianco to create this grape, but that theory remains inconclusive.
The professor also created Manzoni Rosa (Raboso x Muscat Hamburg), Manzoni Rosso (Glera x Cabernet Sauvignon), and Manzoni Rosé 1-50 (Trebbiano x Gewurztraminer).
Italy
Veneto, Colli Trevigiani IGT
Manzoni Bianco
13
Luigi Gregoletto
49–55°F / 9–12°C
Chardonnay
Not Needed
Now to 2030
Gregoletto
In the glass, the Gregoletto Manzoni Bianco is a pale gold. This white wine is young and fresh, and the nose is graceful and light on its feet. Juicy melon and peach, crunchy apple, citrus and mineral slate jump from the glass.
This is a fuller-bodied wine, but the palate is dry and acidic, which creates a wine that is balanced and inviting. The palate exhibits similar notes as the nose, but there is also a light floral element that brings to mind honeysuckle.
This is a gorgeous wine. And, as with so many under-the-radar Italian grapes, it’s one of the wine world’s best-kept secrets. We could see someone who enjoys unoaked Chardonnays reaching for a glass of this when they want to try something new.
Overall, Gregoletto’s take on this rare grape is very well-balanced, and at $22 a bottle, a great value, too.
The full mouthfeel but generous acidity makes us think of brunch or lunch dishes. Pair Manzoni Bianco with creamy omelets with cheese or ham, rich soufflés, and risottos, but also lighter fish dishes and soups. The full mouthfeel but generous acidity makes us think of brunch or lunch dishes.
