Wine Review Online
Wine Review Online – New York State’s Signature Grape Variety: Cabernet Franc?
Jim Clarke, writing for Wine Review Online, makes the case that Cabernet Franc — not Riesling — may be emerging as New York State’s true signature variety. While the Finger Lakes has long owned the Riesling narrative, Clarke argues that Cab Franc is unique in its ability to cut across all three of New York’s major wine regions: the Finger Lakes, Hudson Valley, and Long Island.
From the article:
Cornell University studies have focused on finding the most appropriate clones of Cabernet Franc, determining which strains best handle New York’s conditions. Other Cornell programs have led to improved canopy management practices that better promote balanced ripening and help cope with Cabernet Franc’s susceptibility to fungal infections, which can be a problem in humid areas. Winery practices have become less forced; since the market has grown more receptive to fresher and lighter-bodied reds, less extracted wines – unburdened by excessive new oak – have become the norm.
For wine lovers who favor a more powerful, more Bordelaise take on Cab Franc, Long Island’s warmer, maritime setting comes closest to that profile, though big, blowsy examples are unusual from there. The wines typically show darker fruit and more body than their cousins from more westerly areas. As one moves north to the Hudson Valley and on to the Finger Lakes, the wines become lighter and more red-fruited, but leanness, greenness, and tight tannins are no longer common.
