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Tina and Brett
Horse & Plow Winery is more than just a winery; it’s a culmination of winemakers Suzanne Hagins and Chris Condos’s passion for sustainable farming and natural winemaking. The wines from Horse & Plow are an authentic expression of their terroir and values, resonating with the palates of natural and conventional wine drinkers
This winery receives a lot of attention for their minimal intervention winemaking practices and commits to organic grape sourcing, so we were curious to see how these ideas translate into the 2022 Horse & Plow “Draft Horse”. Is this bottle another Sonoma gem waiting to be discovered or a wine you should pass on?
Let’s dig in!
The Russian River Valley is a hotbed of wineries. Throw a stone in any direction, and you will hit a few. In such a crowded field, carving a unique path for a winery can be tricky, but winemakers Suzanne Hagins and Chris Condos have managed to do so with their Horse & Plow Winery.
Founded in the beautiful green hills of Sebastopol, California, in 2008, this boutique natural winery embodies a deep reverence for nature and tradition, crafting what they call “honest wines that speak of the land.”
Suzanne, a seasoned winemaker, and Chris, with a background in viticulture and enology, came together with a shared passion for crafting unique, terroir-driven wines. They began with just a few acres of Pinot Noir vines, hand-planted and meticulously cared for using organic methods.
Prior to creating Horse & Plow, both Suzanne and Chris cut their chops at some of Napa and Sonoma’s most respected wineries. After studying viticulture and Enology at California’s world-famous UC Davis, he began working at Pine Ridge (a Napa Valley winery that we love, by the way). He is also the consulting winemaker Kathryn Kennedy Wines.
Suzanne, for her part, moved to California in 2000 and jumped right into the industry, doing cellar work at DeLoach, David Bruce, and Goldeneye Winery.
Hagins and Condos embrace a “low and slow” philosophy, allowing natural yeasts to guide fermentation and minimizing the use of additives. This results in wines that are expressive of their varietals and vintage, showcasing vibrant fruit notes alongside subtle earthy complexities. Their minimal intervention approach has earned them a loyal following among natural wine enthusiasts.
Even if you’re not on the natural wine bandwagon, you will appreciate the delicate touch these winemakers use on their wines.
While Pinot Noir takes center stage, Horse & Plow’s portfolio extends beyond Sonoma’s favorite grape. They produce small-lot bottlings of white wine blends, like the 2022 Horse & Plow “Draft Horse”, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Syrah, Riesling, Grenache, and even cider, all sourced from organically farmed vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino counties. Each wine displays a unique personality, reflecting the specific characteristics of its vineyard and painstaking attention to detail in the winery.
USA
Sebastopol, California
46% Pinot Gris, 36% Pinot Blanc, 18% Gewurztraminer
12.9
Chris Condos and Suzanne Hagins
49–55°F / 9–12°C
Chardonnay
Not Needed
Now
Horse & Plow Winery
The Horse & Plow “Draft Horse” 2022 is a clear, pale lemon color in the glass. The slightly green hue suggests a youthful wine. The nose is an enticing blend of ripe stone fruits, dominated by pear and persimmon, followed by bright citrus notes of lemon and grapefruit. A touch of minerality emerges with hints of wet gravel and apple and melon notes round out the profile.
This is a dry and refreshing wine with a palate dominated by crisp lemon and slate minerality. The lime and apple notes from the nose carry through, offering a vibrant fruitiness. Melon adds sweetness and richness while maintaining a balanced dryness. There’s a good amount of acidity to this wine, and that acidity cuts through some of the richness that might otherwise be present.
This bottle of 2022 Horse & Plow “Draft Horse” is a well-balanced and expressive white wine blend. The Alsatian-inspired combination of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Gewurztraminer results in a complex and intriguing profile that we enjoyed. The rich fruit notes are beautifully complemented by the mineral character, while the crisp acidity keeps the wine lively and refreshing. Try pairing this versatile wine with lighter dishes like seafood and poultry, salads, and your favorite vegetarian fare.
We consider this an everyday sipper, not one you might hold in your cellar.
