In a city known for its culinary breadth, Xochi brings a clear and confident point of view to downtown Houston. The restaurant focuses on the rich culinary traditions of Oaxaca, Mexico, with a refined menu that highlights regional moles, masa-based dishes, and precise beverage pairings. Located inside the Marriott Marquis, the dining room draws a steady mix of hotel guests and locals seeking a polished, technique-forward take on Mexican cuisine.

About the Restaurant

Xochi is the latest project from the Ortega restaurant group and reflects a mature, regionally inspired concept centered on Oaxacan foodways. The menu is both curated and expansive, moving beyond tacos and enchiladas to showcase dishes like tetelas, grilled seafoods, and house-made moles. Sourcing practices lean seasonal, with many traditional ingredients, hoja santa, pasilla chiles, and pumpkin seeds, treated with care and restraint. The beverage list incorporates mezcals, regional cocktails, and a compact but relevant wine selection. Corkage is not permitted, though the house pairings are thoughtfully selected.

About the Chef

Hugo Ortega, a James Beard Award winner and one of Houston’s most respected chefs, leads the kitchen with discipline and depth. Originally from Mexico, Ortega trained through experience in multiple kitchens before establishing himself through restaurants like Backstreet Café and Hugo’s. His work at Xochi continues his commitment to honoring Mexican cuisine through structure, not sentiment. Dishes reflect both traditional techniques and a strong sense of control, especially notable in how the moles are layered and presented.

Service & Atmosphere

The dining room at Xochi is upscale without posturing. Natural woods, contemporary tilework, and clean lines set the tone. Service is attentive, informed, and efficient; staff can speak fluently to the details of the mole tasting and its beverage pairings. Lighting is ambient but sufficient, and the acoustics support a comfortable level of conversation even when the room is full. Pacing throughout the tasting menu was deliberate and well-judged.

What We Ate

We opted for the “Mole, Mole, Mole” tasting menu, a five-course experience exploring multiple traditional sauces of Oaxaca. The structure of the menu positioned each mole with a distinct protein or masa-based preparation, allowing the sauce to anchor the plate.

• Tetela: A blue masa triangle filled with hoja santa, beans, and cheese, dressed in pipián verde. The texture was tender with a crisp exterior; the seasoning was restrained but balanced.
  
• Camarones en Mole Amarillo: Grilled shrimp paired with a corn cremoso and a tangy, chili-infused mole amarillo. The contrast between the smoky shrimp and creamy base added dimension.
  
• Taco de Cabrito: Baby goat layered with refried beans and a brooding mole pasilla. A standout for its deep savoriness and textural clarity.
  
• Pechuga de Pato: Rohan duck breast served over fig mole. The dish balanced sweetness and gaminess without overreaching.
  
• Mole Chocolate Cake: Chocolate cake with a mole negro ganache, mole soil, pepitas, and ants, finished with mandarin sorbet. Inventive, not gimmicky; flavor was rich, slightly bitter, and well-integrated.
  

Optional pairings ($45) included well-matched wines, mezcals, and cocktails like the Flor de Oaxaca and a Carneros Pinot Noir. Each pairing showed intention and brought structure to the progression.

Conclusion

Xochi presents a focused and technically sound take on Oaxacan cuisine. The mole tasting offers diners a disciplined, well-executed journey through one of Mexico’s most complex culinary traditions. For those interested in regional Mexican food handled with clarity and confidence, this is a worthwhile destination. The restaurant avoids excess and instead leans into controlled presentation, coherent flavors, and confident service.