“Dinnertime at gay-owned L’Opossum is like visiting Liberace’s garage sale, festooned with embroidered erotica and suggestive stained glass. Southern-style mains are approached with the discipline of a French kitchen. And don’t forget about dessert, with not-so-coyly named sweets like the “Hot Black Bottom” and the “Swashbuckling Bundt Pirate.”