This Winery Is Permanently Closed.
Winery Rating
Located at:
Plateau de La Crau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, France
Reservation Required
Price Range For Tasting
Few domaines capture the soul of Châteauneuf-du-Pape as completely as Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. Established in 1898 and still family-owned, the estate balances tradition and innovation across six generations. Our tasting was made especially memorable by being hosted by Manon Brunier, granddaughter of the Brunier family, adding a deeply personal connection to one of the Rhône’s most storied names.
The estate was founded in 1898 by Hippolyte Brunier, and today remains under the stewardship of brothers Frédéric and Daniel Brunier. Its name, “Vieux Télégraphe,” honors a telegraph station built in the late 18th century atop the plateau of La Crau.
The Brunier family’s continuity has allowed the domaine to maintain a singular vision for over 120 years. In 2018, Manon Brunier officially joined the team, representing the sixth generation alongside her cousins Edouard and Nicolas. Daniel Brunier has described this generational transition as complex yet rewarding, noting their intuitive shared palate when blending wines — a testament to their unified vision (Wine Spectator, Decanter).
The domaine’s 70 hectares of vineyards are anchored in the plateau of La Crau, one of Châteauneuf’s most legendary sites. Here, the soil is blanketed by galets roulés (large rounded stones) over clay, a terroir that stores heat and stresses vines in a way that yields concentrated, structured fruit. Farming is sustainable, with a clear focus on expressing the rugged, dry terroir authentically.
The Wines(See also our profile of Château Fortia for another benchmark estate in Châteauneuf.)
Our visit was hosted by Manon Brunier, granddaughter of the family, making the experience both personal and memorable. Tastings at the domaine highlight the estate’s traditional style — structured, earthy, and unapologetically age-worthy.
The wines showcase garrigue herbs, red and black fruit, leather, and mineral spice, and the estate’s old foudres (large oak casks) impart subtle integration rather than overt oak influence. It’s an experience rooted in legacy, and one that connects you directly to over a century of Rhône history.
Today, leadership rests with Frédéric and Daniel Brunier, who oversee both vineyard management and cellar practices. With the sixth generation — Manon, Edouard, and Nicolas — now integrated, the domaine is positioned for continuity well into the 21st century. Their collaboration exemplifies a rare family unity: in blind tastings, each generation consistently identifies the same cuvées as true “Vieux Télégraphe,” reflecting a shared instinct honed by heritage (Decanter).
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the crown jewel of the Southern Rhône Valley, is defined by its mistral winds, Mediterranean climate, and rocky terroir. Few estates embody the appellation’s identity as completely as Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. Its wines reflect the La Crau plateau, offering both the rugged power and the elegance that make CdP world-renowned.
(See also our coverage of Tenuta di Mensanello for another winery deeply tied to land and family tradition.)
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is more than an iconic estate — it is a living lineage, carried forward today by the sixth generation. From the stony plateau of La Crau to the hands of Manon Brunier, who welcomed us personally, the estate embodies the balance of tradition, terroir, and family legacy. For anyone exploring Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it remains an essential, unforgettable stop.
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