The wine industry is currently navigating a gauntlet of structural and political challenges. In California, the predicted wave of winery closures has officially crashed into reality, forcing a major market correction and prompting growers to rethink their vineyards. Meanwhile, importers are stuck in policy limbo as unexpected new tariff threats overshadow recent Supreme Court victories. But it is not all doom and gloom—scientific innovation continues with UC Davis testing calcium sprays to combat wildfire smoke taint. We also dive into local Napa politics with Thomas Keller, explore California-grown Italian varietals in Solvang, and highlight a stellar Costa Mesa corkage deal.
SF Chronicle – How To Understand The Surge Of California Winery Closures
In the San Francisco Chronicle, Esther Mobley argues that California’s wave of winery closures and layoffs is no longer something the industry is bracing for — it is happening now. She points to a February cluster of shutdowns and staff cuts involving boutique labels like Ernest and Margins, as well as production facility closures and layoffs at major players including Gallo, Foley Family, and Jackson Family. Mobley’s central point is that this is not just a temporary headline cycle but a structural correction: consumer demand is too weak for an industry that spent decades building for continued growth. From the article:
After nearly two years of predictions that we’d soon be seeing a wave of winery closures, we’re no longer waiting for the wave — it’s crashing into us.
There is, however, a new willingness to look on the bright side — or “a determination to fix this,” as Dale Stratton, managing director of Azur Associates, a mergers-and-acquisitions advisor to the wine industry, put it.
Stratton, who lives in Napa, cites as an example the arresting visual of driving up the valley’s Highway 29 and seeing so many vineyards being removed. On one hand, it’s a sign of vineyard owners giving up on selling their crop. On the other hand, many are using it as an opportunity to rethink what their vineyards look like as they contemplate an eventual replanting a few years down the line: Should there be less Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley? Should the vine rows be wide enough to accommodate electric or autonomous tractors? Should the fruiting line be higher so that sheep, now a popular grazing accessory in vineyards, can’t eat the crop?
Wine-Searcher – Wine Tariffs Still Up in the Air
In Wine-Searcher, W. Blake Gray reports that even after the U.S. Supreme Court struck down most of Donald Trump’s tariffs, the wine industry still was not getting real clarity because Trump immediately signaled he could try again under a different legal theory. Gray’s point is that uncertainty itself has become the story: importers, retailers, and producers are being forced to operate in a policy environment where legal wins do not necessarily translate into business confidence. The article argues that the president appeared ready to pivot to a different statute to justify new blanket tariffs, even though that approach also looked legally shaky. For the wine trade, the bigger takeaway is that tariff damage is not just about the duty itself, but about the paralysis and planning risk created when nobody knows what rule will survive from one week to the next. From the Article:
Before importers could finish celebrating the US Supreme Court’s decision last week to strike down most of Donald Trump’s tariffs, the president angrily announced he would immediately tariff every product in the world, using a different law.
These tariffs might not stand either. It appears that Trump may once again be misreading a law that was designed for something else.
It’s a certainty that businesses will sue over this latest round of tariffs. This is the United States, where you can sue Subway if their “footlong sandwich” measures only 11 inches or Red Bull if their energy drink, despite the slogan, doesn’t actually give you wings (Red Bull settled out of court for $640,000.) I’m not a lawyer, so I don’t know how the courts will rule – or more importantly, how soon they will rule.
UC Davis College Of Agricultural And Environmental Sciences – Can A Simple Spray Protect Grapes From Wildfire Smoke?
At UC Davis, Emily C. Dooley reports on joint UC Davis and USDA research testing whether a calcium spray could help protect grapes from wildfire smoke exposure. The idea is that calcium may strengthen grape skins and cell walls, potentially reducing how much smoke-related compounds get absorbed into the fruit. From the Article:
The experiment took place in the vineyard behind the Robert Mondavi Institute for Food and Wine Science where 10 cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay vines under hoop houses protected by shade screens were intentionally exposed to smoke produced from pellets made up of oak, grass, pine and other materials. A control group of vines were not exposed.
In grapes, calcium is known to support disease resistance, prevent cracking and strengthens skin and cell walls, said Arpa Boghozian, a doctoral student in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis, who helped design and lead the research.
The calcium spray was applied twice during the growing season as the veraison stage, which is when berries begin to ripen and reach full size, and two weeks later, Boghozian said.
Analysis is ongoing and the research team hopes to publish findings later this year or early 2027.
SFGate – French Laundry Chef Again Scolds Bay Area Town Over Affordable Housing Project
In SFGATE, Susana Guerrero reports that Thomas Keller publicly criticized Yountville officials over the proposed Yountville Commons workforce housing project, not because he opposes employee housing, but because he says the town has mishandled communication, design, and spending. The plan calls for 150 workforce housing units on the former Yountville Elementary School site, which the town bought in 2024 for $11 million, with development costs estimated at $40 million to $60 million. Keller argued that the current “studio-heavy, dormitory-style” concept may not actually serve 
workers well, and joined other local business figures in calling for the town to pause and survey workers about rent levels, design, and commuting needs. From the Article:
Keller attended Tuesday’s Yountville Town Council meeting wearing a crisp, white chef’s coat. He appeared frustrated at times with council members as well as Mayor Margie Mohler and complained that despite his attempts, no one had contacted him to discuss the housing project.
“I have reached out to each one of you; none of you has reached out to me,” Keller said during the meeting. “I’ve reached out to each one of you to have a conversation about this. I welcome conversations as you do. So, I’m available. Each one of you has my phone number; you know where I am every day.”
Toccata Tasting Room / Solvang, California
Toccata Tasting Room in Solvang provides a specialized focus on Italian grape varieties grown within the Santa Ynez Valley. Managed by the Lucas family, the cellar door emphasizes a casual, village-style atmosphere. The current portfolio highlights how traditional Mediterranean varieties adapt to the unique microclimates of Santa Barbara County.
La Lama” Terzo Movimento” Chianti Classico Riserva 2018
This Chianti Classico Riserva from the Campani family offers a patient and structured take on Sangiovese. Produced in limited quantities in Castelnuovo Berardenga, it combines extended oak aging with the region’s characteristic freshness. It is a wine built for slow enjoyment rather than a quick toast.
Vaca Restaurant in Costa Mesa, CA
Discover the allure of Chef Amar Santana’s Vaca: A Spanish culinary haven in Costa Mesa. Celebrity chef Santana’s newest Orange County restaurant has been a local hot spot for years, and that heat shows no signs of slowing.