Our Rating
Montalcino
Sangiovese
The 2017 Le Lucere from San Filippo is one of those wines that arrives with a full entourage of praise, touting high 90s from big-name critics and a reputation for finesse. We scored it just a notch below that fever pitch at 91 points, but don’t take that as a dismissal. This is still a Brunello that performs admirably, confident and composed, never overreaching. It might not have knocked us completely sideways, but it’s the kind of wine you want around for a slow evening when you’re feeling contemplative and hungry for something layered. Decant it, give it time, and let it unfold.
San Filippo sits southeast of the village of Montalcino, in a part of Tuscany that’s known for delivering Brunello with both structure and grace. The estate itself dates back to the early 1700s, but its modern chapter began in the early 2000s. With about 25 acres under vine, San Filippo leans into thoughtful farming and patient winemaking. The Le Lucere vineyard is their crown jewel—a six-acre plot of schist soils and ideal east-facing exposure. It’s not a sprawling operation, and that’s part of the charm. You get the sense they’re less concerned with volume and more focused on precision.
Roberto Giannelli didn’t set out to become a winemaker. A former real estate broker from Florence, he purchased San Filippo in 2003 with little more than a love for the region and a phone book full of vintner friends. It was a leap—and one that came with a learning curve steep enough to keep him up at night. But with help from seasoned locals and some serious reinvestment into the cellar and vineyard, he managed to steer San Filippo into a respected name in the Brunello world. His hands-off approach in the vineyard and restraint in the winery have helped Le Lucere carve out a reputation for elegance over flash. For someone who came into wine sideways, he’s made it look pretty seamless.
This is one of those wines where the nose alone tells you you’re in for something interesting. There’s a rustic lean to the aromatics—leather, dried potpourri, and a bit of old clay pot—but it’s balanced by a clean thread of plum and sour cherry. Subtle notes of oregano and tobacco give it an herbal edge, like a hillside breeze brushing over sun-baked stone. The intensity is there, but it doesn’t shout.
On the palate, the wine continues in the same thoughtful rhythm. Sour cherry leads the way, with strawberry and cinnamon tucked in behind it. The leather note from the nose carries through, adding texture and a kind of worn-in character. There’s a pleasant herbal lift from thyme, and that earthy clay quality anchors it all. Structurally, the wine is firmly built—medium-plus tannins and a high but integrated alcohol level—but the acidity lands just a touch low, giving the wine a soft, rounded feel rather than a bright snap. The finish is long and savory, lingering with spice and dust.
There’s real craftsmanship here. The balance between fruit, earth, and savory elements is well-managed, and the wine doesn’t feel like it’s trying to do too much. It just is what it is—quietly complex and rooted in its place.
The 2017 Le Lucere is a wine with restraint. It doesn’t lean too hard on power, and it doesn’t coast on fruit. It sits in the middle, confident in its structure and subtle in its delivery. While we didn’t score it quite as high as some of the critics—who were nearly unanimous in their praise—it’s still a Brunello that clearly deserves a seat at the table. There’s elegance here, and an earthy honesty that makes it a rewarding bottle to spend time with.
If you’ve got the patience to decant and the curiosity to sit with a wine that evolves in the glass, this one delivers. It’s not showy, but it’s not shy either. Just give it an hour, maybe a slow-braised lamb shoulder, and settle in. This is the kind of wine that rewards attention.
Italy
Montalcino
Sangiovese
14.5
Roberto Giannelli
1 Hour
Now to 2030
San Filippo
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