Our Rating
Rhône Valley
Vermentino
The 2022 Clos Sainte Magdeleine Baume Noire Vermentino stands as a fascinating outlier in a region famous for its blended white wines. While the winery calls the historic fishing port of Cassis home, this specific bottling carries the IGP Bouches-du-Rhône designation. This labeling choice allows the winery to showcase a single varietal, Vermentino (known locally as Rolle), rather than the multi-grape blend required by the Cassis AOC. Sourced from a parcel on the terraces of France’s highest sea cliff, the Cap Canaille, this wine captures the rugged and wind-battered character of its maritime origin. It offers a focused look at how Vermentino performs when exposed to the intense sun and sea spray of the Mediterranean coast.
Clos Sainte Magdeleine possesses one of the most visually dramatic vineyard sites in Provence. The estate sits on a private cape that juts out into the azure waters, balanced between the limestone bluffs and the sea. The Sack-Zafiropulo family has acted as stewards of this land for four generations, maintaining a reputation for producing white wines of structure and longevity. In recent years, the estate achieved organic certification, a move that formalized their long-standing commitment to sustainable farming. The vineyards benefit from cool maritime breezes that moderate the summer heat, preserving the acidity necessary for high-quality white wine production.
Jonathan Sack-Zafiropulo took the helm from his father, François, in 2008. Since then, he has refined the estate’s approach by moving toward organic viticulture and introducing new vessels for fermentation and aging. For the Baume Noire cuvée, Jonathan utilizes sélection massale vines originally sourced from Corsica. He ferments and ages the wine in 10-hectoliter sandstone amphorae (jarres en grès). This choice of vessel allows for micro-oxygenation without imparting the wood flavors associated with oak barrels. He avoids malolactic fermentation to retain the grape’s natural tension and freshness.
Look
The wine presents a pale gold hue with flashes of bright straw yellow. It appears clear and brilliant in the glass, with a viscosity that hints at its textural weight.
Smell
The nose opens with distinct notes of sea spray and crushed wet stone, immediately grounding the wine in its coastal terroir. As it opens, aromas of Meyer lemon zest, white grapefruit, and daffodil emerge. There is a subtle, savory undercurrent reminiscent of dried wild herbs and fennel that adds complexity to the primary fruit profile.
Taste
On the palate, the Baume Noire is medium-bodied with a texture that feels compact and slightly oily, a result of the amphora aging and lees contact. The acidity is bright and lifted, cutting through the density of the fruit. Flavors of salted lemon, yellow apple, and unripe peach are prominent. The finish is long and persistent, marked by a savory, saline quality and a pleasant bitterness akin to almond skin or olive brine. It remains focused and precise from start to finish.
This 2022 Vermentino serves as a testament to the potential of single-varietal wines in this coastal corner of Provence. The decision to use sandstone amphorae successfully preserves the purity of the fruit while adding a layered, granular texture. It delivers concentration without excess weight, balancing ripe fruit notes with a rigorous mineral backbone. This is a serious, structured white wine that reflects the unique geology of the Cap Canaille terraces.
France
Rhône Valley
Vermentino
13%
Jonathan Sack-Zafiropulo
N/A
Now to 2029
Clos Sainte Magdeleine
