Our Rating
Santorini
Assyrtiko
Skitali translates to “baton” in Greek; a fitting name for a wine that symbolizes the transition of stewardship at this iconic Santorini estate. Sourced from organic vines in Pyrgos and Megalochori, this Assyrtiko spends 12 months on fine lees, delivering a textural, saline, and structured white wine capable of significant evolution.
In the world of Greek wine, few names carry as much weight as Hatzidakis. The Skitali bottling serves as a tangible representation of the winery’s history and its future. The name references a relay baton, acknowledging the shift from the late founder, Haridimos Hatzidakis, to the next generation. It represents a commitment to a specific style of Assyrtiko that prioritizes texture and patience over immediate, primary fruitiness.
This 2019 vintage continues the method of extended lees contact in stainless steel. The goal here is to harness the natural power of Santorini’s volcanic terroir while smoothing the variety’s often aggressive edges without the use of oak. It offers a glimpse into how traditional vinification can yield wines of serious weight and longevity.
Haridimos Hatzidakis founded the winery in 1997, reclaiming abandoned vineyards in the village of Pyrgos Kallisti. From the beginning, the estate differentiated itself by championing organic viticulture; a rarity on the island at the time. Hatzidakis remains the only certified organic grower on Santorini, a testament to their dedication to soil health in a harsh, windswept environment.
The physical winery is carved directly into the pumice stone of the hillside. This cave system provides natural temperature control and humidity, allowing for a low-energy approach to winemaking. The architecture reflects the philosophy of the wines: integrated with the landscape rather than imposed upon it. The focus remains on indigenous yeasts, minimal intervention, and bottling wines unfiltered to preserve their biological vibrancy.
Stella Hatzidakis, Haridimos’s daughter, now leads the winemaking team. She officially took the helm following her father’s passing in 2017. Her approach honors the foundational principles of the estate while refining the details that ensure consistency and precision.
Stella continues to work with ungrafted, basket-pruned vines (kouloura) that are distinct to the island. Her work with the Skitali label emphasizes the structural potential of Assyrtiko. By allowing the wine to rest on its lees for a full year, she encourages a broadening of the palate that balances the variety’s naturally high acidity. It is a confident, hands-off approach that relies on the quality of the raw material rather than corrective additives.
The wine pours a mild yellow with distinct golden reflections. The color is slightly deeper than a typical fresh Assyrtiko, hinting at the extended time spent on lees and the maturity of the fruit.
The nose is restrained initially, requiring some time in the glass to open up. It reveals aromas of lemon zest, crushed wet stone, and flint. As it breathes, savory notes emerge, including dried herbs and a faint touch of sourdough or yeast autolysis. The fruit profile leans toward unripe peach and citron rather than tropical or floral esters.
On the palate, this Assyrtiko is full-bodied and dense. The acidity is markedly high but well-integrated into the wine’s substantial weight. There is a palpable sense of salinity, reminiscent of sea spray, which drives the mid-palate. Flavors of bitter lemon, white grapefruit, and chalk persist. The texture is firm and chalky, avoiding any sensation of oiliness. The finish is long, dry, and savory, leaving a clean, mineral impression.
The Hatzidakis Skitali Assyrtiko 2019 is a wine built on structure rather than simple refreshment. It balances the intense energy of Pyrgos fruit with the savory complexity derived from lees aging. While approachable now for those who appreciate high-acid white wines, it possesses the density to develop further in the bottle. It serves as a strong example of the region’s ability to produce age-worthy, world-class white wines.
Greece
Santorini
Assyrtiko
14
Stella Hatzidakis
N/A
Now to 2027+
Hatzidakis Winery
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