Our Rating
Madrid
Garnacha Tinta
The 2022 Granito Cadalso Garnacha feels like a walk through the wild, rocky landscapes of Madrid’s Sierra de Gredos—wind-swept, rugged, and brimming with character. It’s the kind of wine that doesn’t try too hard but still manages to leave an impression. With red fruit, earthy smoke, and a touch of spice, this bottle is a snapshot of the region’s high-altitude vineyards. At $20, it’s an accessible way to explore one of Spain’s more overlooked wine regions, with the added charm of a story rooted in community revival.
Cooperativa del Cadalso has been around for decades, but like many small, rural wine cooperatives, it faced hard times as vineyard upkeep became less profitable than selling land for housing. By 2015, the co-op was at a crossroads. Enter Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia of Comando G, who were approached with an idea: help breathe new life into the vineyards and restore the co-op’s reputation. The duo eagerly accepted the challenge, bringing fresh energy to the operation.
The cooperative’s vineyards are spread across the Sierra de Gredos, where old-vine Garnacha thrives in granite-rich soils. These rocky, nutrient-poor soils, combined with cool mountain breezes, naturally limit yields while enhancing the grapes’ intensity and freshness. The result is a lineup of wines that reflect the rugged landscape without losing their charm. Granito Cadalso is a perfect example—pure, expressive, and undeniably rooted in its surroundings.
Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia might sound like a pair of laid-back wine enthusiasts, but don’t let their casual approach fool you. Their work with Comando G has helped redefine what Spanish Garnacha can be. The two met while studying oenology in Madrid, bonding over a shared fascination with the region’s mountain vineyards. From those early days, they were hooked on the potential of the Gredos terroir—a landscape of granite boulders, scrubby vegetation, and forgotten old vines.
Winning over local growers wasn’t just about showing up with big plans. Dani and Fer spent time in village bars, sharing beers with elderly vineyard owners who had long given up hope of seeing their grapes turned into top-quality wine. Slowly but surely, the duo gained their trust, securing access to some of the area’s best old-vine plots. They farm biodynamically, hand-harvesting their grapes and letting the vineyards speak through the wine.
While they take their wine seriously, Dani and Fer know how to have fun. They’ve been spotted belting out karaoke in Toronto, and Dani, a self-confessed rock and roll fan, once had wine critic Luis Gutiérrez singing his praises. That balance between passion and playfulness shows in every bottle they produce, including this Granito Cadalso.
Pouring a glass of the 2022 Granito Cadalso is like uncorking a bit of Madrid’s mountain air. The wine shows a clear, medium-intensity ruby hue, shimmering with a touch of garnet at the rim. Swirling it in the glass, the high viscosity hints at the bold flavors to come.
On the nose, it’s like stepping into a rustic cellar lined with cigar boxes. Smoke and tobacco come through first, soon joined by ripe black cherry, raspberry, and a sprinkle of anise. There’s a wild, slightly herbal edge, as if someone dropped a handful of dried mountain herbs into the glass.
The first sip confirms what the aromas promised. Black cherry and raspberry take the lead, bright and juicy, before giving way to smoky, savory notes. The tobacco and spice flavors are more subtle here, like the faint memory of a campfire on a cool evening. A touch of cinnamon adds warmth on the finish, which lingers with a mineral edge—a clear nod to the granite soils of the Sierra de Gredos.
Structurally, the wine feels well put together. The acidity sits comfortably in the medium range, giving the fruit a lively lift without making the wine feel sharp. The tannins are noticeable but polished, providing enough grip to keep things interesting. Alcohol clocks in at 14%, but it’s well-integrated, adding body without heat.
This Garnacha doesn’t need a decanter, though giving it a bit of time in the glass helps the smoky, herbal aromas unfurl. Serve it slightly cool, around cellar temperature, in a Bordeaux glass to capture the full aromatic range.
The 2022 Granito Cadalso Garnacha is proof that good things happen when old vineyards meet fresh ideas. With Landi and Garcia at the helm, Cooperativa del Cadalso has produced a wine that’s approachable, flavorful, and distinctly tied to its Sierra de Gredos roots. The mix of bright red fruit, smoky undertones, and herbal complexity makes it a great option for both casual sipping and more thoughtful tasting sessions.
At $20, it’s a solid value, especially given the story behind it. You’re not just drinking a bottle of Garnacha; you’re tasting the result of a community’s determination to preserve its winemaking heritage. And if you close your eyes, you might even picture those mountain breezes rustling through the vines. Or maybe you’ll just start planning your next karaoke night. Either way, it’s a wine that invites you to slow down, enjoy, and savor the moment.
Spain
Madrid
Garnacha Tinta
14
Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia
Not Necessary
Now to 2030
Comando G
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