Our Rating
Ashland
Pinot Noir
There’s something charming about a great Pinot Noir. It never shouts. It doesn’t need to. Instead, it quietly invites you in with layers that unfold slowly, like a good conversation or a favorite book. The 2019 Wädenswil Block Pinot Noir from Irvine & Roberts Vineyards in Oregon’s Rogue Valley is exactly that kind of wine. It’s not trying to be flashy, but it doesn’t have to be. With its refined structure, earthy undertones, and just the right amount of fruit, this bottle offers a lovely balance that’s hard to forget.
Irvine & Roberts Vineyards is a relatively young player in Oregon’s wine scene, but they’ve made quite a name for themselves in a short time. Nestled in Ashland, a charming town better known for its Shakespeare Festival than its wine, the vineyard is proving that the Rogue Valley deserves just as much attention as the Willamette Valley.
The vineyard sits on an east-facing slope, which gives the vines plenty of cool morning sun but shields them from the harsher afternoon heat. That’s important, especially for Pinot Noir, which thrives in cooler climates. The soils here are sedimentary, adding a distinct mineral character to the wines. Irvine & Roberts is family-owned, with Doug and Dionne Irvine, along with Doug’s sister Kelly and her husband Duane Roberts, at the helm. Their approach is hands-on, and you can feel that care in every bottle they produce.
Brian Gruber isn’t your typical winemaker, and that’s part of what makes his wines so interesting. Before he ever set foot in a vineyard, Brian spent 11 years in the U.S. Air Force in Personnel Command. Not exactly the usual path to winemaking, right? After his time in the military, he pursued a Master’s degree in Public Policy at Harvard’s John F. Kennedy School of Government. It was only after a stint in banking that Brian realized his true passion wasn’t in spreadsheets or policy papers—it was in grapes.
Once he made the leap into winemaking, there was no turning back. Brian honed his craft at respected Oregon wineries like Quady North, Barrel 42 Custom Winecraft, and Troon Vineyard. He even founded Swallow Hill Vineyard in Ashland. His wines have consistently received high marks from critics, with nearly 100 wines scoring 90 points or higher under his direction. Five of his wines have even landed on Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator’s coveted “Top 100 Wines” lists.
The first thing you’ll notice when you pour a glass of the 2019 Wädenswil Block Pinot Noir is its beautiful color. It’s a pale purple, almost translucent, but don’t let that fool you. Pinot Noir often wears a lighter coat, but that doesn’t mean it lacks depth. The wine is crystal clear, with a medium-plus viscosity that hints at the layers waiting to unfold. As you swirl your glass, you’ll see those legs slowly making their way down the sides, promising a wine that’s both elegant and well-structured.
Stick your nose into the glass, and you’re greeted with a pronounced intensity that immediately sets this wine apart. Black cherry takes the lead, offering a juicy, dark fruit aroma that’s both inviting and intriguing. But there’s so much more going on here. A hint of olive adds a savory edge, while earthy notes of dirt and mushroom bring a grounded complexity. Cedar and plum round out the aromatic profile, giving you a mix of fruit, earth, and wood that feels both familiar and unique.
There’s a subtle hint of spice in the background, almost like the scent of cinnamon wafting through a kitchen. The alcohol is well-integrated, sitting at a medium level that supports the aromas without overpowering them. This is the kind of wine you want to take your time with because each sniff reveals something new.
The first sip delivers exactly what the nose promised—and then some. Black cherry is front and center again, but it’s joined by bright raspberry and a touch of strawberry that adds a lively freshness. There’s a savory note from the olive that gives the wine an almost Mediterranean feel, while hints of oregano and oak add depth. Cedar brings a woody warmth, and a touch of cinnamon spice lingers on the finish.
This is a dry wine with medium acidity that gives it a vibrant, mouthwatering quality. The tannins are also medium, offering just enough grip without being too assertive. Alcohol sits at a comfortable medium level, contributing to the wine’s balanced structure. The body is medium as well, making it feel light on its feet but substantial enough to hold its own against a variety of dishes.
What really stands out is the flavor intensity. Every sip is packed with bold flavors that don’t fade quickly. The finish is long, leaving you with lingering notes of cherry, cedar, and a hint of spice that invites another sip.
The 2019 Irvine & Roberts Vineyards Wädenswil Block Rogue Valley Pinot Noir is a wine that rewards patience. Decant it for an hour, pour it into a proper Pinot Noir glass, and you’ll be treated to a wine that unfolds gracefully over time. It’s drinking beautifully now, but there’s enough structure here to suggest it will age well through 2029.
At $65, it’s not an everyday bottle, but it delivers solid value for the price. The balance, complexity, and craftsmanship make it worth the splurge, especially if you’re looking for something that captures the essence of Oregon Pinot Noir without being predictable.
So, if you’re in the mood for a Pinot Noir that offers both elegance and a little bit of adventure, give the 2019 Wädenswil Block a try. It might not shout, but trust me, it doesn’t need to.
USA
Ashland
Pinot Noir
13
Brian Gruber
1 Hour
Now to 2029
Irvine & Roberts Vineyards
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