Team C&J
The 2020 Piedlong Châteauneuf-du-Pape offers an exploration of one of France’s most storied wine regions through the lens of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. (We recently reviewed their 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Télégramme”). Crafted by the Bruniers, a family synonymous with winemaking excellence, this vintage highlights the best of Grenache and Mourvèdre, two of the Rhône Valley’s hallmark varietals. With its pronounced aromas, balanced structure, and long finish, this bottle exemplifies the allure of Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (one of our favorite regions), meaning “The Pope’s New Castle,” is a jewel in the Southern Rhône Valley, renowned for robust and complex red wines. The region’s terroir, characterized by its distinctive galets roulés (large rounded stones), facilitates the slow ripening of grapes, leading to concentrated flavors.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most esteemed wineries in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a region synonymous with exceptional Rhône Valley wines. Established in 1891, the estate has been meticulously managed by the Brunier family for six generations. Its name, “Vieux Télégraphe,” originates from a 19th-century telegraph station located on the property, reflecting the estate’s deep connection to its historical roots. Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe’s other notable releases, such as La Crau, have long been celebrated, but Piedlong offers a focused look at a specific terroir, showcasing a different facet of the estate’s capabilities. Known for producing wines of extraordinary depth, structure, and age-worthiness, the estate has garnered international acclaim for its traditional approach to winemaking and sustainable viticulture. Visit their website to learn more about their storied history and exceptional portfolio.
The 2020 Piedlong is composed of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, a classic blend that emphasizes Grenache’s ability to provide ripe, fruit-forward flavors while Mourvèdre contributes structure and savory depth. The Bruniers’ commitment to traditional techniques ensures minimal intervention, allowing the wine to reflect its terroir authentically. Careful fermentation and aging in large oak foudres impart nuance without overshadowing the fruit.
To fully appreciate the 2020 Piedlong’s complexity, it is best served slightly below room temperature in a Bordeaux-style glass. Decanting for at least 30 minutes will help the aromas open up. The wine is drinking beautifully now, but its well-structured tannins and acidity ensure it can evolve gracefully in the bottle until 2030. Expect tertiary notes of dried herbs and leather, as well as further integration of its spice elements, to develop with time.
The wine holds its own among Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s esteemed offerings. Compared to other producers emphasizing Grenache dominance, such as Domaine de la Janasse or Clos des Papes, Piedlong presents a slightly more savory and restrained profile. While it shares the depth and complexity of these wines, its tar and cigar box notes offer a distinctive twist, emphasizing its individuality within the region.
Appearance
The wine pours a clear ruby hue with medium intensity. High viscosity suggests richness, a prelude to the palate’s density.
Nose
The bouquet is pronounced, inviting an exploration of layered aromas. Blackcurrant and black cherry dominate the fruit profile, balanced by earthy undertones of tar and cigar box. Subtle oak integration lends vanilla and cinnamon notes, while hints of smoke and spice underscore the wine’s complexity.
Palate
On tasting, black cherry and blackcurrant take center stage, accompanied by raspberry’s fresh tartness. These fruit elements are enhanced by secondary notes of anise, oak, and tobacco. Smoky accents and a touch of vanilla add warmth, while a backbone of medium-plus acidity and tannin provides structure. The alcohol (14.5%) is medium-plus but well-integrated, creating a medium-to-full body with a pronounced flavor intensity. The wine’s finish is notably long, leaving impressions of cinnamon and black fruit.
The 2020 Piedlong Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a standout example of Southern Rhône winemaking. Its balanced blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre offers immediate pleasure with a richness that doesn’t overwhelm. This is a wine crafted with care, reflecting the Bruniers’ expertise and the unique terroir of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Whether enjoyed now or cellared for a decade, it is a bottle that rewards the drinker with every sip.
France
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Grenache
14.5
Frédéric and Daniel Brunier
62–68°F / 16–20°C
Large Bordeaux
30 Minutes
Now to 2030
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
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