Team C&J
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Télégramme,” priced at $64, is the second label of this prestigious estate, but it offers a sophisticated and immensely enjoyable experience that showcases the true essence of the terroir. It’s a wine that exudes balance, complexity, and a distinct sense of place, making it a perfect entry point into the wines of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe.
Founded in 1898 by Hippolyte Brunier, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the oldest and most respected estates in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. Located in the southern Rhône Valley, the estate sits on the stony plateau of La Crau, a unique terroir that greatly influences the character of its wines. The rocky soils, covered with large galets roulés (rounded stones), reflect heat during the day and retain warmth into the night, helping to ripen the grapes fully while preserving acidity. This distinctive terroir contributes to the bold, structured wines that Vieux Télégraphe is known for.
Now managed by the fourth and fifth generations of the Brunier family, Daniel and Frédéric, the estate continues to produce wines that are highly regarded for their balance, elegance, and ability to age gracefully. The Brunier brothers are deeply committed to traditional winemaking practices, including organic farming and minimal intervention in the cellar. This respect for tradition is evident in the quality of their wines, which consistently receive high praise from critics and wine lovers alike.
As mentioned earlier, the “Télégramme” is the estate’s second label, intended to be more approachable in its youth than the flagship Vieux Télégraphe bottling. While it shares the same dedication to quality, it is crafted with younger vines and aged for a shorter period, offering a fresher, fruit-driven expression of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that can be enjoyed earlier in its life.
The 2021 “Télégramme” is a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre, and 4% Cinsault. Grenache, the dominant grape in this blend, thrives in the hot, dry conditions of the Rhône Valley and is known for producing wines with rich fruit, spice, and a plush texture. Syrah adds structure, color, and savory notes, while Mourvèdre brings complexity and depth with its earthy, gamey character. Cinsault, the least prominent varietal in the blend, contributes bright red fruit and floral aromas, adding lift and freshness.
La Crau’s terroir plays an essential role in shaping the character of this wine. The large galets roulés not only aid in the ripening of the grapes but also contribute to the wine’s mineral backbone. The terroir’s influence is evident in the wine’s balance between ripe fruit and savory, earthy elements. Additionally, the region’s warm Mediterranean climate allows the grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness, which results in wines with robust flavors, firm tannins, and the ability to age gracefully.
At Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, winemaking is a meticulous process that honors the traditions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The grapes for the 2021 Télégramme are hand-harvested from younger vines, which produce fruit with more vibrancy and freshness.
The wine is aged for about 10 months in Cement tanks, and then for an additoinal 6 months in large French oak foudres. This aging method allows for the development of secondary flavors like leather, cedar, and spice while maintaining the bright fruit characteristics. The oak influence is subtle, adding depth and complexity without overpowering the wine’s inherent freshness. By aging the wine in large, neutral barrels rather than small new oak barrels, the Bruniers ensure that the focus remains on the fruit and the expression of the terroir.
The result is a wine that is both approachable in its youth and capable of developing additional complexity with a few years of bottle age. While the 2021 Télégramme is crafted to be enjoyed earlier than the estate’s flagship Vieux Télégraphe bottling, it still exhibits the balance, structure, and complexity that are hallmarks of the domaine.
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Télégramme” has been well-received by critics and wine lovers alike. We rated the wine 93 points. The wine’s ability to combine ripe fruit with savory, earthy elements has made it a favorite among those seeking a Châteauneuf-du-Pape that offers both immediate pleasure and the potential for further development.
Critics have highlighted the wine’s pronounced aromatics, with its blend of dark fruit, herbal notes, and spice creating a dynamic and engaging nose. On the palate, the wine’s structure and balance have been noted as key strengths, with the firm tannins providing the framework for the wine’s rich flavors. The long finish, with its lingering notes of leather, cedar, and black fruit, has also been a standout feature in reviews.
In the glass, the 2021 Télégramme reveals a deep ruby color with high viscosity, indicating its full-bodied nature and elevated alcohol content. The clarity is remarkable, reflecting the care and precision taken in the winemaking process. The richness of the color suggests a wine that is ripe, concentrated, and ready to deliver a memorable sensory experience.
The aromatics of the 2021 Télégramme are immediately engaging, with pronounced intensity. On the nose, there is an abundance of dark fruit, led by black cherry, blackberry, and black currant. These fruit notes are complemented by a complex array of secondary aromas, including cedar, cigar box, and leather, which speak to the wine’s oak aging.
There is also a subtle herbal quality, with hints of eucalyptus and lavender, adding freshness to the otherwise rich bouquet. As the wine opens up, the earthiness of the terroir comes through, with notes of dried herbs, tobacco, and a touch of black pepper rounding out the nose. The balance between fruit, spice, and earth is masterful, creating a deeply layered aromatic profile that invites repeated exploration.
On the palate, the 2021 Télégramme delivers a powerful and well-structured experience. The black cherry, blackberry, and black currant flavors are rich and concentrated, dominating the initial impression. As the wine evolves on the palate, the savory elements of leather, cedar, and eucalyptus emerge, adding complexity and depth. The oak influence is present but well-integrated, with notes of vanilla and spice complementing the fruit rather than overshadowing it.
One of the standout features of this wine is its balance. The medium-plus tannins are firm but not aggressive, providing structure without overwhelming the palate. The acidity is medium-minus, which adds a sense of freshness and helps to balance the wine’s full body and ripe fruit. Despite the wine’s richness and 14.5% alcohol level, it remains surprisingly elegant, with no sense of heat or heaviness.
The floral notes of lavender and the herbal nuances of eucalyptus lend a lifted, refreshing quality to the wine, while the minerality from the La Crau terroir provides a long, satisfying finish. The flavor intensity is pronounced, and the finish is remarkably long, with the savory, earthy notes lingering on the palate long after the last sip.
While the 2021 Télégramme may be considered a more approachable and affordable alternative to Vieux Télégraphe’s flagship wine, it is by no means a lesser wine. It offers a snapshot of the estate’s commitment to quality and terroir. This is an excellent wine at this price point and we highly recommend it.
France
Chateauneuf du Pape
Red Blend
14.5
Daniel and Frédéric Brunier
62–68°F / 16–20°C
Large Bordeaux
1 Hour
Now to 2035
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
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