Team C&J
At this point we would call this a developing wine, marked by concentrated flavors and a bold profile, but unfortuantly, a bitterness and tartness that overwhelms the wine. This 100% Cabernet Franc is a robust, assertive wine that diverges from the often refined or restrained expressions one might expect from this grape variety in cooler regions. And not in a particularly good way.
Nestled in the heart of the Santa Maria Valley, Foxen’s Tinaquaic Vineyard benefits from a coastal influence that preserves the acidity in its grapes, a factor that plays a crucial role in the structural integrity of this wine. Founded in 1985, Foxen Vineyard & Winery has long prioritized site-specific expressions, with Tinaquaic’s sandy soils and cool climate providing an ideal backdrop for single-varietal wines like Cabernet Franc. This approach aligns with Foxen’s reputation for producing wines with a sense of place, echoing the vineyard’s unique microclimate and terroir.
David Whitehair’s winemaking techniques for this vintage aimed to bring out the full-bodied potential of Cabernet Franc, enhancing its bold structure without losing the finesse that defines this varietal. The wine underwent traditional fermentation and spent time aging in oak barrels.
Visually, the wine presents a deep, garnet hue that hints at the concentration within the glass. High viscosity clings to the sides, suggesting a fuller-bodied wine with notable alcohol and extract. This characteristic is validated by the wine’s ABV, which stands at a notable 14.5%, promising a dense, potent drinking experience that, we hope, will continue to develop with time.
On the nose, this Cabernet Franc reveals a spectrum of bold aromas, reflecting the ripe character and nuanced minerality of Santa Maria Valley’s terroir. The bouquet begins with classic notes of leather, olive, and jalapeño, which quickly expand into a more fruit-forward medley of blackberry, plum, and black currant. There is a compelling earthiness layered with hints of dried grass and savory beets, bringing complexity and a hint of herbal depth to the aromatic profile.
This is not a shy wine; the pronounced aromatic intensity allows each note to unfurl distinctly, yet harmoniously, creating a captivating olfactory experience. The unusual yet inviting presence of jalapeño and leather in particular hints at an underlying spiciness and savory richness, suggestive of a wine meant for slower sipping and gradual unfolding.
Given its robust tannic structure and high alcohol content, this wine will benefit from additional aging, with optimal drinking suggested between 2027 and 2040. The structure and density of flavors imply that this wine is built for the long haul, and cellaring should allow it to mellow, soften the bitterness, and bring forward more secondary and tertiary notes like leather, tobacco, and earth.
If opened now, a large Bordeaux-style glass and an extensive decant of at least four hours are advised to let the wine breathe and soften slightly. However, even with these adjustments, some of the wine’s bold, assertive qualities will persist, making it a wine best appreciated alongside similarly intense flavors.
On the palate, the 2020 Foxen Cabernet Franc is densely packed with flavors that mirror its aromatic complexity. Leading with a strong presence of black currant and plum, the wine introduces a vivid fruit profile that mingles with more piquant notes of jalapeño and white pepper.
One characteristic that stands out—and not entirely favorably—is a pronounced bitterness and tartness that persists even after extended decanting. This edge, while adding to the wine’s personality, may not appeal to all palates and perhaps overshadows some of the more subtle flavors that would otherwise emerge in a smoother wine. Extended decanting (at least four hours is recommended). This will hopefully moderate the bitterness slightly, but it remains a defining aspect of the wine’s profile.
The 2020 Foxen Cabernet Franc from Tinaquaic Vineyard is an intriguing wine with significant intensity and complexity, though not without its challenges. It may not be to everyone’s taste due to the pronounced tart and bitter undertones that linger despite decanting. Nonetheless, those who appreciate a bold, structured wine will find much to explore here, from its layered aromas to its long, tannic finish.
Our score of 87 suggests that while it has several strengths—including a distinctive flavor profile and impressive aging potential—it may fall short of the smoothness and integration seen in higher-scoring wines. For those willing to embrace its idiosyncrasies, the Foxen Cabernet Franc offers a distinct experience that showcases the diversity of Santa Maria Valley’s offerings. With time and patience, this wine has the potential to evolve, rewarding collectors with a glimpse into the unique expression of Cabernet Franc in a traditionally Pinot-focused region.
Overall, the 2020 Foxen Cabernet Franc is a wine that may divide opinions but is nonetheless a testament to Foxen’s commitment to bold, expressive winemaking. With a few years in the cellar, it could very well surprise those who revisit it, gradually unveiling a more polished character while maintaining its assertive charm.
USA
Santa Maria Valley
Cabernet Franc
14.5
David Whitehair
62–68°F / 16–20°C
Burgundy
4 Hours
2027 to 2040
Foxen Vineyard & Winery
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