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Tina and Brett
When we try a Chenin Blanc like the one from this boutique producer, we think the world should be drinking more Chenin Blanc, especially if your go-to wine is Chardonnay. The drinkability of some of these wines is off-the-chart good, and they are so much more reasonably priced than a quality Chard.
That’s probably the main reason you don’t hear more about allocated Chenin Blanc; most people just don’t know how good it really is. We typically think of allocated wines as those cultish bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir coming from hot spots in California or France. But winemaker Pierre Ménard is breaking that mold with each vintage of his highly anticipated Chenins from his very own Domaine Pierre Ménard label.
A New Vision for an Old Wine Region at Domaine Pierre MénardPierre Ménard’s family has been farming grapes for several generations in the Loire Valley’s Anjou region, but typically, the family sold their Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc grapes to the local coop. That all changed after Pierre returned home from working harvests in climates as diverse as Canada, New Zealand, and Tokaj, Hungary.
In 2013, his parents allowed him to keep a small portion of old vine Chenin and Sauvignon Blanc (the vines are roughly 50+ years old), and he bottled that vintage in his garage. The production was minuscule. Even calling that batch of wine a micro-vintage would be overstating things.
Despite Pierre being a newcomer to the winemaking side of things, this first vintage made an impression on those who sampled it, and Pierre started to develop a reputation for his “going against the grain” style – at least for this region in the Loire.
Wine lovers who like elegant wines can’t get enough of Pierre Ménard’s wines when they can purchase them that is. The Chenin Blanc from this rising star winemaker is sold out at K&L Wines, and SommSelect expects the bottles they have on hand to disappear quickly.
Winemaker Pierre Ménard takes a soft approach to crafting his wines, and that starts in the vineyard, where he utilizes biodynamic practices. His low-intervention winemaking style uses no new oak, and he prefers slow, cold fermentation.
If you’re wondering what happens to the botrytis grapes in the family’s 20 acres of vineyard, Pierre’s hand plucks those grapes from the clusters to use in a separate bottling called ‘Cosmos’ so that they don’t go to waste, and they do not interrupt his vision for clean, balanced Chenin Blanc.
The Coteaux du Layon appellation is known for its botrytis “noble rot” wines. These wines are a mesmerizing shade of gold, and they’re also sweet, thanks to the effect that the botrytis fungus has on the grape. For a quick palate reference, Bordeaux’s famous Sauternes wine is also made from botrytis grapes.
Pierre is well aware of the region’s ability to produce sticky-sweet Chenin Blanc, but his goal has never been to recreate what other winemakers in Coteaux du Layon are producing. He believes that wines with a sweeter palate cannot deliver or express the characteristics of their terroir like a drier wine.
France
Anjou, Loire Valley
Chenin Blanc
14.1%
Pierre Ménard
49–55°F / 9–12°C
Chardonnay
Not Needed
Now to 2029
Domaine Pierre Ménard
This Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley’s Domaine Pierre Ménard hits all the right notes. In the glass, the wine is a brilliant gold, and the nose hits you immediately. Beautiful notes of ripe melon, quince, and pear are followed by lemon citrus, nutmeg, and Stoney gravel. Fragrant honeysuckle adds those classic honey notes that some Chenins are known for.
On the palate, the combination of apple, lemon, peach, pineapple, pear, and lime flavors is balanced and slightly sweet – in the best way possible. A hint of gravel keeps the fruit from going overboard. The wine has a nice acidity, and the finish is long-lasting and enjoyable.
The wine was aged in neutral French oak barrels for a mellow texture and mouthfeel.
Overall, the 2019 Pierre Ménard Anjou La Varenne De Chanzé Chenin Blanc is very palate-friendly, and it was a delight to sip. The fruit and minerality offer an elegant expression of Anjou, and we can see why the wines from this young winemaker are so heavily lauded in the wine community. Stock is running low at our favorite wine retailers, so if you see that they still have a bottle or two available after you read this review, do purchase one and express this Chenin for yourself.
