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One of the reasons the unique minerality of Chablis wines has enchanted sippers the world over is thanks to the region’s use of stainless steel fermentation tanks. If you love this style of wine, then trying the wines of Domaine Louis Michel, particularly the 2019 Louis Michel Betteaux, “Vielles Vignes”, Premier Cru, is a must.
This family-owned winery is considered a pioneer when it comes to eschewing wood in favor of steel to preserve the flinty acidity of Chablis wine. The region as a whole began this transition between the 1970s and 80s, but the Michel family patriarch, Louis Michel, for whom the winery is named, started this practice in the late 60s before the rest of Chablis understood and embraced the technique.
Today, the domain’s slogan, ‘Chablis in its purest form,’ best sums up that ethos.
What is Chablis?Chablis is Chardonnay produced in the Chablis region of France, which is located in the Northwestern corner of Burgundy. Winemakers believe this region is extra special when it comes to producing clean, classic French Chardonnays because the soil here is somewhat chalky, Kimmeridgian soils that have layers of ancient limestone.
The Chardonnay produced in Chablis is fermented in steel tanks to preserve the grape’s mineral qualities and natural acidity. This differs from regions like Napa Valley that ferment in oak barrels, which imparts an oaky butteriness to the wine. Domaine Louis Michel
The Michel family has been making wine in Chablis since 1640, a date recently unearthed when winemaker and owner Guillaume Michel’s mother began researching the family’s history in the region. Prior to that, the Michel family could only (only!) trace its history back to around 1850.
Guillaume learned winemaking from his grandfather, Louis, and he took over the management of the winery in 2006 when the family patriarch was ready to retire. Before he joined the family business, Guillaume lived in Paris and was working in communications. He had no formal viticulture education. Everything he knew about winemaking was handed down from his grandfather.
From 25 hectares, the family produces around 150,000 bottles a year.
Domaine Louis Michel’s winemaker, Guillaume Michel, believes that wine is in the vineyard. The terroir in the family’s vineyards is exceptional, and low intervention techniques are emphasized from the vine to the glass.
To that end, in the vineyard itself, ground cover is used to nurture the soil and protect the vines, and pesticides and herbicides are avoided. All of the Grand Cru grapes and a portion of the Premier Cru vineyards are hand-picked. When Guillaume took the reins from his grandfather, he brought back the use of native yeast fermentation – something his grandfather stopped in the 1970s.
All of the winery’s wines are aged in stainless steel vessels; in fact, this is a practice that Domaine Louis Michel pioneered as far back as the 1960s when most vintners used oak barrels to mature their wines.
The grapes used in the Butteaux “Vielles Vignes” bottling are part of a 60-year-old, low-yielding vineyard block that produces wines with similar palates to the winery’s Grand Cru Chablis.
One of the most interesting features of Domaine Louis Michel is that the estate’s holdings include vineyard parcels in all of Chablis’ appellations.
This winery produces all four designations of Chablis: Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Chablis, and Petit Chablis. Most of the wines in the brand’s portfolio are categorized as Premier Cru Chablis – there are eight such bottlings, and each bottle can be cellared for eight to ten years.
France
Chablis | BUTTEAUX | VIELLES VIGNES
Chardonnay
13
Guillaume Michel
62–68°F / 16–20°C
Burgundy
Not Needed
Now to 2030
Louis Michel
In the glass, the wine is a pale lemon. The nose on this Premier Cru Chablis is complex, and finding your way through each note takes time, but the reward is worth it. Creamy lemon, crisp apple and pear, and the “clean” qualities of celery and wet gravel come together in a remarkable way.
The palate on the wine is a joy, and once that first sip settles in, you begin to appreciate that the grapes used to make this Chablis came from some of the best vineyard Butteaux. There’s a nice amount of acidity tying together notes of apple, green pear, refreshing lime, creamy lemon, and abundant slate.
This wine is incredibly clean and precise, and the finish seems endless.
Wine critics consistently score the Chablis from Louis Michel in the low to mid-90s, and it’s easy to understand why. These wines are graceful light and exemplify what Chablis is and why so many wine lovers flock to these wines. This is a very good wine, and we think that once you try it, you will be fan too.
