Benoit Cantin has produced terroir-driven wines in Burgudy’s Irancy region since the 19th Century, and this winery shows no signs of slowing down.
Domaine Benoit Cantin has been in the Cantin family for generations, and the family takes great pride in the fact that this French wine house has been handed down from father to son since Auguste Cantin began farming here in the late 1800s.
Today, it is Benoit Cantin that sits at the helm of the domain. While his father, Bernard, still offers guidance and advice, it is Benoit who is responsible for farming the family’s 16 hectares of vineyards that, mind you, spans ten lieu dits!
Bernard began handing over responsibilities to his son in 1991, and three years later, Benoit released his first vintage. Taking the knowledge of his father and grandfather before him, Benoit continues to craft Pinot Noir wines that are always well received for their rustic elegance and the way they express the characteristics of Irancy’s limestone soils and unique geographical placement and microclimate.
After nearly 30 years managing the winery, Benoit will soon begin the slow and methodical transition of integrating his son, Félicien, into the winery. Félicien will graduate from the Beaune Wine School, and another generation of the Cantin family will begin writing their own history of this much loved Irancy-based brand.
Domaine Benoit Cantin’s vines are exclusively located in the Irancy appellation, which sits in Burgundy’s northwestern corner, just west of Chablis. The small commune of Irancy officially gained appellation status in 1998. Prior to that, Pinot Noir from Irancy was classified under the Bourgogne appellation.
Pinot Noir wines from Irancy are allowed to be blended with up to 10% César, a grape known for its intense tannins and deep garnet color. During vintages where the grapes poorly ripen or where weather creates less than desirable fruit, César is added to increase color and structure in the region’s Pinot Noir.
Irancy has gained acclaim in recent years for its high-quality but reasonably priced wines that offer an affordable alternative to the prestigious domaines of Burgundy.
Besides their geographical proximity, Chablis and Irancy share a few more special facets, namely Kimmeridgian soils and a cool climate that makes the vines susceptible to frost.
Irancy’s limestone and clay soils are filled with marine fossils, which local winemakers in the commune, as well as those in Chablis, believe impart the wines with a distinct minerality. The soils are also known for reflecting the sun’s hot rays in the summer and for their efficient drainage, a feature that encourages the roots to fight down into the earth for water.
South-facing slopes, like the ones found in Benoit Cantin’s vineyards, are prized in Irancy. The region’s relatively cool climate can sometimes make slow work of ripening grapes, so when possible, growers plant their vineyards facing south to maximize sun exposure.
The wine market is flooded with Pinot Noir, some of it good, and some of it not so good. The 2019 Benoit Cantin Pinot Noir is the former. This is a wine that draws you in with its intriguing nose and then holds your attention with its captivating palate.
In the glass, Benoit’s wine is a pale ruby color. The nose is tremendous. Earthy oregano, herbaceous mint, slightly sweet black cherry and licorice, cedar and nutmeg spice, and olive just leap from the glass.
The palate is similarly structured. More notes of black cherry, with the addition of tart raspberry, garden oregano, olive, spicy cedar, tempered notes of rose, and a little kick of pepper. This wine has a nice backbone with fine tannins, medium acidity, and very pronounced flavors.
The 2019 Benoit Cantin Pinot Noir is outstanding. We were blown away by this wine’s elegant finesse and its complex characteristics. You would be hard-pressed to find a Pinot Noir from Burgundy, or from California, for that matter, that can go toe-to-toe with the quality in this bottle.
The winery produces a modest, if not trimmed, 6,500 cases a year. If you find this on the shelves of your local wine merchant, do pick up a few bottles.
France
Burgundy
Pinor Noir
13
Benoît Cantin
62–68°F / 16–20°C
Pinot Noir
30 to 60 Minutes
Now to 2025
Domaine Benoit Cantin
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