Team C&J
The Folonari family’s winemaking prowess goes back to the 1700s, so when you open a bottle from their eponymous Tenute del Folonari brand, you know your palate is in good hands. The evolution of this Tuscan wine company is extraordinary, not just for the Folonari’s long history in the industry, but the way they have transformed their wine holdings from one centered around mass produced table wines, to a portfolio of Super Tuscans that are regularly scored in the 90s by critics like James Suckling, Vinous, and the Wine Advocate is a remarkable feat.
The label’s Cabreo “Il Borgo”, whose first vintage was released in 1982, is a blend in equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese. The 2018 vintage of Cabreo “Il Borgo”, which we review here, was captivating. This is an Italian wine worthy of the praise heaped on it.
The Folonari family has been making wine in Italy since the 1700s, when the family’s patriarch, Lorenzo Folonari, started a mercantile trading business, with a wine production component on the side.
By the early 1900s, the family was firmly rooted in the wine business and their brand was thriving, so much so that two generations down the line, Italo and Francesco Folonari made what was at the time a huge acquisition by purchasing Tuscany’s historic Ruffino winery, famous for its iconic Chianti Classico bottles wrapped in straw.
A fun wine fact: those straw wrapped bottles are called fiascos.
If you ever dined in an Italian restaurant that has tables covered in red and white checkered tablecloths, there’s a good chance you saw this wine on the table.
The family continued expanding their holdings over the next several decades by increasing their vineyard holdings with the acquisition of two iconic estates in Chianti: Tenuta del Cabreo in 1967 and Tenuta di Nozzole in 1971.
In 2000, after splitting off from Ruffino, which would later be sold to Constellation Brands, Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari decided to take their portfolio of Italian wine brands in a new direction. Ruffino was always viewed as a modest table wine, so they renamed and rebranded their holdings Tenute Folonari, and turned their focus to high-end, premium Italian wines.
If the 2018 Cabreo “Il Borgo” is any indication, they nailed their new concept.
Today, Tenute Folonari includes:
The Tenute del Cabreo vineyards are located in Chianti Classico DOCG. Of the estate’s 148 acres, 110 acres are planted to grapes that include: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Tuscan wine has been around for hundreds of years, but Super Tuscan wine, by comparison, has only been a thing since the 1980s. You see, Italian wine hasn’t always been as respected around the world as it is today, and Italian winemakers in the late 1970s and early 80s set about to change this.
To do so, they started planting non-indigenous grape varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah to blend with Tuscany’s most popular grape, Sangiovese. So, the main difference between Tuscan and Super Tuscan wine is that Tuscan wines are made primarily from indigenous Italian grape varieties (AKA Sangiovese), while Super Tuscan wines include non-indigenous varieties, predominantly French varieties like those found in Bordeaux.
Some of the most famous Super Tuscans, such as Sassicaia and Tignanello, are made primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon. Others, such as Ornellaia and Solaia, are made from blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese.
True to its form, the 2018 Cabreo “Il Borgo” is a Super Tuscan that is bold, but sleek around the edges. In the glass, the color is a deep ruby with moderate viscosity. Pronounced notes of orchard plums, black cherry, muted soil, and subtle olive are complemented by bright bell pepper and a touch of cigar box.
The palate on this Tuscan wine is expansive, bold, and has a certain elegance to it, despite all of that lush dark fruit. Moderating green bell pepper compliments the richness of the luscious black cherry, black currant, and ripe plum, while earthy elements of olive and graphite add depth. Wisps of black pepper and cigar box offer secondary notes that fit perfectly with the profile of this full-bodied wine.
We have really been digging the Super Tuscans that have found their way onto our table lately. First there was the bottle from Caiarossa, and now this 2018 vintage from Tenute del Cabreo. This style of wine will pair perfectly with the chilly weather that is about to head our way. If you haven’t cracked open a wine like this in a while, now is the time.
Italy
Tuscany
Red Blend
15
Unable to find winemaker
62–68°F / 16–20°C
Burgundy
60 Minutes
Now to 2040
Tenute del Cabreo
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