Team C&J
The wines of Cantine Valpane have been receiving awards since the winery’s founding by the Fojadelli family in the 19th century. The Fojadelli family owned Valpane until the early 1900s when they were no longer able to care for the vineyard. In the years leading up to the sale, a young vintner named Pietro Arditi had convinced the family to “rent” him some of their vines, so he could try his hand at making an exceptional Barbera wine.
When the Fojadelli family finally made the decision to let go of Cantine Valpane, selling the estate and surrounding vineyards to the young man that had been so carefully tending to their vines made sense.
What’s interesting about Arditi’s story is that he actually asked the Fojadelli family to sell him the entire property several years before. It seems he had his eye on Valpane for quite some time and had conceived a grand plan that had him dress in his finest clothes, approach the Fojadellis with an offer, and then proceed to make the wines he dreamed of.
Unfortunately, the timing wasn’t quite right for the Fojadellis, and instead, they told Pietro that they would lease him a few acres of vines. So, you can imagine how thrilled Pietro was when the family ultimately sold him the very property he’d been captivated by for years.
Like so many girls of her time, Pietro Arbiti’s daughter Lydia had to cut her time at school short and stay home to help around the family property. Inquisitive Lydia didn’t have much interest in helping around the house and instead became her father’s shadow in the vineyard.
Her curiosity in the vineyard led to a curiosity in the cellar and then to her father’s negotiations with wine merchants. As she learned more about grape growing, cellar management, and the wine business in general, Lydia took over negotiations for the family business and was the only woman in the region to manage the business side of the wine business in Monferrato.
When Lydia was ready to retire, she knew there was only one natural fit to take the reins in the family business, her nephew, who, like his grandfather, was called Pietro Arbiti.
The “Rosso Pietro,” as it is known in the wine community, is named both for its gorgeous red color and, colloquially, for Pietro’s bright red beard. Pietro has continued the tradition his family started two generations prior by focusing on the quality of the land the grapes are grown on, and, as he puts it, “I’m just careful not to ruin what the land gives us.”
This humble approach to winemaking has earned him fans around the world and continues to garner his wines awards at competitions in Italy and beyond.
There are over 2,000 indigenous varieties of wine in Italy, but one of the more unappreciated yet commercially viable grapes is Barbera. Of Barbera’s three classified growing zones, Barbera di Asti and Barbera de Alba are the most recognizable. But, it’s the often overlooked region of Barbera del Monferrato where some incredibly high quality, value wines can be found.
Monferrato Barbera wines also differ from the neighbors in Asti and Alba in style and structure. Where Asti and Alba Barberas are bigger, a little richer, and more tannic, Monferrato wines have more refined aromatics and a lighter body style.
Barbera del Monferrato wine must have a robust base of Barbera (a minimum of 85% in the bottles). Other native Piedmontese grapes are often used to enhance these wines, so finding trace amounts of Dolcetto, Friesa, and Grignolino is not uncommon.
Cantine Valpane has an enviable vineyard in Monferrato. The site is incredibly fertile, and the soil provides an ideal site for vines, which have been planted here since the 1700s. Rows of grapes are planted in a shape that mimics an amphitheater. A bowl and gentle surrounding slopes promise varying degrees of sun exposure.
This wine has all of the characteristics of a site-driven Barbera from Monferrato. There’s an “of-the-earth” essence to it and a rustic simplicity that grabs you on the first sip. The nose is full of dark pitted fruits like black cherry and ripe plum. Earthy graphite and aged leather round out the bouquet. The softest hints of clove present themselves as the wine opens.
Like other Barberas, this wine sings with acidity and bright but slightly brooding fruits. Black cherry, rich plum, and blueberry introduce a fine fruit-forward palate. Balancing the fruit are pleasant wet gravel notes, light vanilla, and a whisper of smoke. This Barbera is light on its feet but not so light that it lacks structure. A really nice, drinkable wine.
Kermit Lynch really comes through with this selection. With this Valpane Barbera from Pietro Arditi, you’re getting an excellent value wine that’s perfect for everyday drinking and is also an excellent food wine. The bottle we tried was so good that we bought an entire case!
Italy
Piedmont
Barbera
14.5
Pietro Arditi
62–68°F / 16–20°C
Burgundy
30 min to 1 hour
Now to 2026
Cantine Valpane
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