Our Rating
Piedmont
Nebbiolo
Barolo is often called the “King of Wines,” and for good reason. These Nebbiolo-based wines from Piedmont are known for their powerful tannins, complex aromas, and impressive aging potential. But not all Barolos demand decades in the cellar before they soften up. Some, like the 2017 Giorgio Sandrone Barolo del Comune di La Morra, strike a balance between structure and early drinkability. While it has the classic backbone of a Barolo, it also brings a certain refinement that makes it enjoyable even in its youth—especially after a bit of decanting.
This particular Barolo comes from La Morra, a village known for producing some of the more elegant, aromatic expressions of Nebbiolo. It’s still structured, still full of character, but with a finesse that makes it more accessible. If you’re looking for a Barolo that delivers depth without overwhelming intensity, this one is worth exploring.
The Sandrone Giorgio winery has its roots in the 1950s, when Giovanni and Livia Sandrone began working a section of the historic “Parà” farmstead in La Morra. Back then, the focus was on farming a mix of grapes, hazelnuts, and other crops, with winemaking coming later. In 1968, the family took a big step forward, purchasing their own farmstead and launching the Sandrone Giovanni farm. For years, they sold grapes rather than making their own wine, but eventually, they started bottling their own production—a move that set the stage for the wines we see today.
Fast-forward to the present, and the estate is now led by their son, Giorgio Sandrone. The family’s holdings include 6.5 hectares of vineyards, primarily in La Morra, along with a significant hazelnut orchard—because, after all, Piedmont is as famous for its hazelnuts as it is for its wines.
The winery focuses on just two wines: Barolo del Comune di La Morra and Langhe Nebbiolo. With this tight focus, Giorgio is able to craft wines that truly reflect the character of La Morra’s terroir.
Giorgio Sandrone officially began bottling under his own name in 2020, but his experience in the vineyards goes back much further. He’s deeply rooted in La Morra’s winemaking traditions, working with vines that are now in their prime, some as old as 50 years. His approach is a mix of traditional and modern—low-intervention farming, native yeast fermentation, and extended aging in neutral barrels.
The vineyard’s location at 350 meters above sea level helps bring freshness to the wine, while the Tortonian marl soil lends finesse and complexity. The result is a structured but balanced Barolo, with a focus on elegance rather than sheer power.
This wine is all about structure, complexity, and depth, but it manages to remain inviting rather than intimidating. A half-hour in the decanter helps soften it up, allowing the fruit and earthy nuances to shine.
The color is a deep, vibrant garnet, showing excellent clarity with high viscosity. There’s a touch of that classic Nebbiolo transparency at the rim, a sign of the grape’s naturally lighter pigment.
Right away, the nose is expressive, offering a pronounced mix of fruit, earth, and spice. Black cherry and plum lead the charge, followed by cedar, leather, and a touch of dried mushroom. There’s a distinct earthy quality—potting soil, tobacco, and a hint of thyme—giving it a layered complexity that evolves in the glass.
The first sip confirms everything the nose suggested. Dark cherry, plum, and date bring rich fruit flavors, but they’re quickly followed by leather, cedar, and a firm but refined tannic grip. There’s a savory edge, with thyme, anise, and a subtle mushroom note adding depth. The wine finishes long, with lingering earthiness and just enough acidity to keep things fresh.
Though the tannins are present, they’re not overwhelming. A good food pairing—like mushroom risotto or braised short ribs—will help bring out the wine’s more delicate side.
The 2017 Giorgio Sandrone Barolo del Comune di La Morra is a great introduction to La Morra’s style of Barolo. It has all the structure and depth you’d expect from the region, but with a level of refinement that makes it enjoyable even in its youth. It’s a wine that benefits from a little patience—both in the decanter and in the cellar—but it’s far from unapproachable.
For $50, it’s a solid value, especially considering the level of craftsmanship involved. Whether you’re a longtime Barolo fan or just starting to explore the world of Nebbiolo, this is a wine that delivers complexity, balance, and plenty of character.
Italy
Piedmont
Nebbiolo
14
Giorgio Sandrone
30 Minutes
Now to 2027
Sandrone Giorgio
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